An urbanist’s Copenhagen

Copenhagen, as in the municipality vs Storkøbenhavn/Hovedstadsområdet, made up of 18 municipalities. Københavns Amt, a county authority, existed from 1970-2006.

Storkøbenhavn:

Timeline:

  • 1043: King Magnus the Good lands in Havn (mentioned in the 11th century Knytlingesaga)
  • 1167: Absalon begins to build his castle in Havn (according to Saxo; Latin ‘Mercatorum Portus’, ie ‘Købmændenes Havn’)
  • 1536-1660: Renaissance, James VI and Christian IV’s CPH (again)
  • 1870-1900: Det moderne gennembrud (walk | another) – byplan og bygninger af Ferdinand Meldahl, Voldkvarter med stuk på facaden og fine fornemmelser, fra kernen af det gamle ved Frue Plads, ud af de smalle gader, gennem Ørstedsparken og Voldkvarterets brede gader, gennem markedshaller og Botanisk Haves Palmehus
  • 1888: Nordic Exhibition of Industry, Architecture and Art
  • 1960s: How Copenhagen rejected 1960s modernist ‘utopia’
  • from 1989 aim was for CPH to be a driver for the whole nation; no more almene boliger, property sold off quickly, eg Kalvebod Brygge, Ørestad; Kulturbyen96, the extension of the airport and Øresundsbroen also contributed
  • 1994: CPH almost bankrupt in 1980s, bankrolled by the Home Office in 1993-94 (see Københavns genrejsning 1990-2010); causes inc the closures of eg B&W and the naval base on Holmen, leading to high unemployment, the decentralisation of industry, enabling growth in smaller towns, and the movement of people to the suburbs (families moved out of the city as soon as they could afford it – closer to nature, had their own villa, etc)
  • from around 2000 CPH began to be cool
  • population went from 760K in 1954 to 465K in 1990; 583K in 2014

Geography:

Copenhagen’s 10 administrative bydele (map | map2) divide into four subgroups:

  • Indre By – includes Christianshavn (see separate page)
  • Østerbro, Nørrebro and Vesterbro/Kongens Enghave (aka brokvartererne)- see separate page
  • Amager Vest and  Øst – see separate page
  • the Vs to the west:
    • Valby – see separate page
    • Vanløse (2720 | walks | map (1780)) – another one which became part of CPH in 1901, smallest bydel and oldest village; lots of building in the first half of the 20th century: Bogen om…., Vandrefuglen
  • the Bs to the north/north west:
  • random bydele:
    • Bellahøj: it (and Brønshøj generally) between two fingers of the Finger Plan; a bit lost and forgotten
      • 1950-56; name Bellahøj comes from the house built by merchant Moses Levin Mariboe (1760-1830) in 1791, called after his wife, Isabella eller Bella Henriques (c1761-96)
      • Bellahøjmarken/ -parken and Degnemosen: CPH’s highest point, 37m above sea level
      • Restaurant Bellahøj: see above; formerly kro and gård; three Bronze Age burial mounds behind
      • flag pole, Bellahøjvej: akse gennem Rødkildepladsen med udsigt til Københavns Rådhus
      • Bellahøj Amfiteater: in modernist park
      • Bellahøj Vandtårn (1913): not fredet; at Bellahøjvej 50
      • Genforeningspladsen (1930-32): now known for the recreational area rather than the high density housing
      • Adventskirken: Sallingvej
    • Grøndal (pics | walks | map): spreads over parts of Brønshøj, Vanløse and Nordvest, from the slope down the ridge at Bellahøj to the valley Grøndal Å used to wind across; originally grassland between the villages of Vanløse, Brønshøj and Utterslev, never achieved administrative status
      • AF Beyersvej: oldest houses in the area (18th century), probably all gone now
      • Vendsysselvej: Vendsysselhus, Thorkild Henningsen (1924-25), reliefs by Svend Rathsack; Skagensbo (1936) by K Weidmann Pedersen
      • Morsøvej: dobbelthuse med en utraditionel udformning
      • Frederiksgårds Allé: Frederiksgårdskole (1951)
      • Grøndalsvænge Haveboligforening 1914-20: influenced by Carl Strinz from Bonn, who won Den Store Konkurrence in 1908
      • Grøndalsvænge Allé 7 and 9 – owned by vandvæsen, skolehaver ved siden af
      • Enebærvej 11: Ivar Bentsens forsøgshus (1929)
      • Randbølvej: western border; three different types of town planning; lots of funkisvillas
      • Katrinedalsskolen: 1934; funkis

Not forgetting Frederiksberg, the by i byen. Also, most of Amager is not in Copenhagen municipality (see separate page).

There are also ‘functional’ bydele:

  • easy enough to get your head round – Christianshavn, Vesterbro and Kongens Enghave (less so), and the reasonably well defined bits of Amager (link) such as Islands Brygge and Ørestad
  • things get more tricky when you hit the Vs and the Bs, aka sprawl:
    • Nordvest, also known as Nordlædervest and Nordværst, is generally taken as postnummer 2400 (pop: 45K; map) and covers the south west part of Bispebjerg and small bits of Vanløse and Nørrebro; VINK
    • Grøndal spreads over Brønshøj, Vanløse and Nordvest
    • then there’s Bellahøj…
    • the redevelopment of Nordhavn and Sydhavn will surely also call for further reorganisation
    • and Carlsberg – Vesterbro, really??

Indre By:

Nordhavn: Flickr | timelapse | webcam | Wikipedia | Vandringsløse Tidende | Havnekulturkontoret

  • history (English) | Gåafstand (2007; English) | Jan Christiansen: the most dangerous S tog station at night, marking the end of CPH; #lookup experience destroyed by building a town the size of Roskilde in front of the view
  • Nordhavnsvej (2017): road linking the Helsingør motorway and Strandvænget, improving access to Nordhavn from north of CPH, and possibly also to the Amager motorway south of CPH, if the Havnetunnel (again) is approved
  • areas south to north:
    • FN Byen/Marmormolen
    • Århusgadekvarteret: Marina Park (Sundkrogsgade 2-4) | bottleneck with poor connections to both Lyngbyvej and the airport; cinema to be built on Hamborg Plads
    • Kronløbsøen: new islet; apartments etc over an underwater car park; more apartments on Fortkaj (2020)
    • Sundmolen: Copenhagen International School (By og Havn)
    • KalkbrænderihavnenPaustians Hus (Jørn Utzon, 1987; listed 2000) | Bruun Rasmussen (Kim Utzon, 2003) | Kaffebaren Havnelyst (Skudehavnsvej 6; dates from the 1960s
    • Levantkaj: currently the container terminal; with Skudehavnen and Skudeløbet; no bevaringsværdige bygninger here; masterplan to be developed
    • Fiskerihavnen/Fisketorvet: formerly Skudehavnen, at Østersøvej; the last commercial fishermen in CPH; moved here in 1995 from further in Nordhavn
    • Oceankaj

Copenhagen a-z:

Universities: